Just 28 miles off the coast of the Cornish peninsula of Great Britain and Land's End lies one of the world's largest archipelagos. In total some 150 islands contribute to the picture-postcard paradise that is more commonly known as the Isles of Scilly. |
| Sunny Scillonians, as islanders are called, total approximately 2,000 residents spread across five inhabited islands that boast a history dating back to the Stone Age. Being situated in the middle of the Gulf Stream gives these blissful tropics the pleasure of frost-free winters and an average of 1.752 hours of sunshine every year. This is an experience shared by much of the south coast of England, as prevailing winds keep the skies clear of clouds. |
| Life as an islander is an experience shared across the globe with almost 600 million people stranded on 9,000 inhabited islands. An age-long debate continues over whether size really matters in defining what is an inhabited island (among Scillonians, legend has it that 15th Century criminals were released on Bishop Rock, left with only bread and water to defend themselves from the ravaging sea, presumably classifying The Rock as inhabited) |
| Even Robinson Crusoe would have struggled to survive on the standing-room-only island of Bishop's Rock, but just six miles away is the hustle and bustle of St Mary's. This largest of the Islands of Scilly is a popular summer place for knowledgeable Brits. Whether arriving by sail or tail, visitors find life contentedly moving at a snail's pace, a place dictated by nature where one can step back in time to discover welcoming locals living off the land and the sea. |
| The ten miles of coastline reveal a bulging beauty of pristine white beaches, dampened only by the lapping waves of the turquoise waters. With 35 beaches spread across the archipelago, it comes as a surprise not to be on the hunt for tanning territory, but the attractive reality is that bathing battles are a rarity in this deserted dreamland. |
| Through the lingering leaves of the palm trees is a variety of landscapes from woodland heaths and wetlands to rocky headlands and sand dunes. On the east of the islet is the secluded beauty spot of Pelistry Bay, offering splendid views of the isolated Eastern Isles hovering on the horizon. Almost always empty and caught in a suntrap, crossing the causeway to Toll's Island, at low tide, will only enhance the peaceful atmosphere. |
| Never quite alone, a large collection of Neolithic chamber tombs accompany you on an awe-inspiring amble on the coastal path, whilst the voices of Radio Scilly resonate around Telegraph Tower. It is the humid climate and clear waters that also make this the perfect home for a variety of rare and exotic plant life. Beyond the silent shrubbery, peace on earth is shattered only by weather and the Atlantic winds and gales that attack the islands have made them home to more shipwrecks than anywhere in the world. |
| The worst of which came in 1875 when a German ocean liner passing by the islands on its regular voyage to Hamburg, via Plymouth, from New York came to grief against the treacherous rocks of Retarrier Ledges. A chaotic escape ensued in which only 37 survived with help from the locals, while some of the unfortunate 335 passengers and crew were laid to rest in the Old Town Church of St Mary's. The manner in which the islanders handled this disaster impressed the Germans enough to refuse to drop bombs over the archipelago during World War II. It could be argued that this earned them the nickname the "Fortunate Isles", but it may also be the 900 recorded shipwrecks that have provided the islanders with goods and driftwood to use in their houses and sell on the mainland. |
| Fresh with this knowledge, you have to blink twice upon witnessing the traditional summer Gig races. Taking place twice a week, boats not much wider than kayaks, but in some cases a century old, race from island to island for honour and pride. The 32-foot traditional wooden working boats are manned by seven hardy islanders and running alongside them are passenger boats, should you wish to cheer the crews on. If this stimulates your seafaring appetite then the Island Sea Safaris will provide a welcome thrill going in search of a variety of wildlife from puffins to Atlantic seals and seabirds, as well as the occasional shipwreck. |
| Just away from the gaze of the helm of the ship is Tresco, the second largest of the island group, home to a stunning variety of scenery from the rugged hearthland of the north to the sub-tropical sandy beaches of the south. If legend is to be believed then this is the final resting place of King Arthur and who could blame him with Abbey Gardens in the sheltered southern tip being home to over 20,000 exotic plants from 80 countries across the globe. |
| The Duchy of Cornwall has owned the title to all of the islands since 1337, but Tresco was left in the hands of the Dorrien-Smith family in 1831 after a period of leasing ended. Interestingly in 1949 the capital of St Mary's, Hugh Town, was sold to the inhabitants by the British Crown. |
| Once the exploration of this island of hidden treasures is complete, whether arriving back in the capital on two wheels or feet, the roads will be at your mercy. There is no rat race to sweep you off your feet as traffic jams are a channel away and you can while away the hours in the tranquil teashops or peaceful pubs. |
| Just a step away from the haven of Hugh Town is the old garrison and fortification, at the centre of which is Star Castle, built in 1593, to protect the island from a possible Spanish invasion. In modern times, the only battle is a war of words over the terms "Scilly Isles" and "Scillies", which are considered incorrect terms by the locals. But even this verbal assault won’t stop these former farming and fishing communities from growing as the thriving tourist industry continues to flock to a land of such contrasting scenery. |
| Once a sanctuary for pirates, explorers and merchants, these granite islands have now become a palm paradise for mainlanders and islanders from all the continents. |
If You Go:
As the isles are dictated to by the weather, inevitably it is hard to predict the best time of year to visit. However, history has shown that the islands enjoy frost and snow-free winters with inviting clear skies, whilst spring comes early with flowers being harvested around Christmas time.
Summer does not bring extreme heat but almost certainly cloudless skies in a timeless setting. Sailing restricts your visits slightly but it is possible to fly all the year round. If it's the Gig racing you're interested in then, the World Pilot Gig Championships takes place at the end of April, whilst the island-to-island races are throughout the summer.
If you're traveling by sea then you must make your way to Penzance (Cornwall) to catch the Scillonian Ferry, which operates between the end of March and the end of October, sailing Monday to Saturday in the summer months (less frequently outside the summer). To reach Penzance Quay, you can either go by train or take a National Express Coach from many destinations across the United Kingdom, or alternatively hire a car.
Isles of Scilly Travel operate flights throughout the year from Southampton, Bristol, Exeter, Newquay and Land's End. You can connect to these airports from destinations across the UK.
Useful websites:
http://www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/
http://www.simplyscilly.co.uk/
www.nationalexpress.com
www.thetrainline.com
www.airsouthwest.com
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PHOTO CREDITS:
Andy Buswell
Title Photo - Tom Corser / www.tomcorser.com. (Licensed under Creative Commons Attribution ShareAlike 2.0 England & Wales (UK) Licence: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/uk/deed.en_GB).
All other photos as noted.
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
Andy Buswell is a freelance travel writer. To see more of his work, visit:
http://www.wix.com/buzzy081983/andy1
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