
I just found it all in Vanuatu.
"Where?" you probably want to know. You'll find it on a map of the South Pacific, between Fiji and Papua New Guinea, about 1300 miles from the eastern coast of Australia. If the map is more than 30 years old, it will still be called by its former name: New Hebrides.
Vanuatu is famed for gorgeous islands, active volcanoes and a virtually intact Melanesian culture, especially on the Island ofTanna. Wikipedia adds this about it, "Vanuatu consists of approximately 80 islands, where locals speak more than 113 languages. Before independence in 1980, it was under the unusual dual-power colonial rule of the English and French. Both English and French are still widely spoken, but the common language for all islanders is Bislama, a charming pigeon English."
The most important Bislama word I learned is kastom. It refers to the deep, fascinating tribal culture that has persisted in spite of the colonizers' and missionaries' attempts to wipe it out. In the past, the culture included head hunting and ritual cannibalism. No longer, of course, but it is believed that the Cargo Cult is still active in some remote places, including the deification of wooden depictions of downed World War II aircraft. When I visited kastom villages and experienced the intriguing ancient ceremonies, music, dances and beliefs of Vanuatu, I was Marco Polo.
Come with me to the South Pacific. For a moment in time, you too can be Marco Polo, through the photographs of Paul Ross. And maybe, one day, you will have a personal experience of Vanuatu; I wish this for you.
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The ceremonial art created on the islands of Vanuatu is mysterious, evocative and mesmerizing. |

Kava, a drink with anesthetic properties, is being prpared and will be served to a "patient" in coconut shells., |

Left: A chief and his granddaughter attend a traditional community event…and up pops bubble gum, a bit of modernity.
Right: A weary father and daughter rest after participating in a ritual dance. |

Tribal women prepare and offer a taste of traditional foods. |

Left: Members of a Small Nambas tribe demonstrate sand drawings, which communicate vital information. Right: Indigenous tribes like the Big Nambas share their dances, customs and culture with interested visitors. |

After the ceremony, dancing continues far into the night… |

Village women create “water music” by descending into water and using slapping patterns to create musical rhythms. |
ACCOMMODATIONS:

Although Vanuatu offers unique encounters with tribal people, it also offers a full range of hotels, resorts and B+B's in all categories, because many visitors come from Australia and New Zealand..
Efate is the main island, and there is a luxury resort called Havannah (about 25 minutes from Port Vila), a very pleasant and fabulously located resort called Iririki Island Resort, on an island 2-minutes by ferry from the middle of downtown Port Vila, and a host of mid-range and inexpensive options as well.
On Tanna Island, the White Grass Resort is the best accommodation, but there are many choices.
On Espiritu Santo Island, which is a private island, we can recommend Oyster Island Resort. A l5-minute ferry ride from the center of Espiritu Santo takes you to Aore Resort, where you can stay in a thatched bure that is l0 paces from the ocean. Or, you can take a ferry to Ratua, a Relais & Chateau property on a private island. |
GETTING THERE:

| PHOTO CREDIT: Port Vila Harbor-Wikipedia=Philip Capper |
PHOTO CREDIT: Wikipedia = Philip Capper |
National carrier Air Vanuatu operates regular services to Port Vila from Auckland, Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Noumea and Nadi. Other airlines operating to Vanuatu include Air Calin, Pacific Blue, Air Pacific and Air New Zealand.
Direct flights operate between Australia and Vila and are available through Air Vanuatu and Pacific Blue. Flights depart from Brisbane taking approximately 3 hours, 5 hours from Melbourne and 4 hours from Sydney.
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PHOTO CREDITS: Paul Ross, except as noted.
Judith Fein and Paul Ross have contributed travel articles and photos to more than 100 publications. judith is the author of LIFE IS A TRIP: The Transformative Magic of Travel.
The duo's website is: http://www.GlobalAdventure.us
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