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Nepal breathes heritage and lives history. It is a treasure trove of architectural marvels beginning with its three most famous durbar squares.
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 Derbar Square is a generic term used to describe open plazas fronting royal palaces of Nepal and used for ceremonial gatherings before the old kingdoms of Nepal were unified. Its most famous are: Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. All three are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. |
| In Nepal, this ancient heritage comes alive. It is revered and celebrated. It embodies not just the culture and the traditions of the land, but epitomizes a way of life and a source of pride for the Nepalese. Nepal has always nurtured the reputation of being a country of contrasts, where gods and mortals live together. A rugged terrain protected by the Himalayan peaks also adds to its rich diversity and traditions. |
| Though heavily influenced by its neighbours, cultural heavyweights, India and China, over the centuries Nepal has woven its own unique and rich inter-cultural tapestry. Over the centuries different ethnicities with different languages, culture and religion have coexisted here. The country is a cauldron of cultures and beliefs, heritage and history all firmly moored in harmonious traditions. |
| The original inhabitants, the Newars, are an outcome of this cosmopolitan heritage and are believed to have descended from Indo-Europeans and Burmese and Tibetan-speaking people. Patronized by the rulers of the country over the ages, the Newars, as a tribe, were exceptionally skilful artisans and craftsmen with a history that goes back over 2000 years. The culture is colorful and dynamic. Festivals are an integral part of life; and worship takes on mythical and sometimes mysterious dimensions. |
| Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is the commercial nerve centre as well as the gateway to its throbbing tourism industry. Situated in a valley surrounded by hills, the picturesque city is also renowned as the land with the largest congregation of magnificent monuments and temples ever built. The city is a treasure trove of history and architectural marvels holding some of the finest examples of craftsmanship in stone, metal and wood. |
| Religion and art play a very important role in the Kathmandu Valley. Art, most of the time--be it painting or sculpture, dance or any other rituals--is dedicated to the deification of a favourite god. Anywhere you visit you find paintings of gods and goddesses in their different avatars and poses. These gods are usually shown in their peaceful manifestations and at times vengeful, spitting wrath. The masterful sculptors from the kingdom were adept in using stone as their favoured medium. Don't be surprised to find stone sculptures strewn all over the Valley. Pieces left from the Licchavi Era usually are of Vishnu, the creator and the keeper but also of other Hindu deities. |
| The gods and goddesses are venerated in temples and shrines found mostly in the Durbar Squares of Kathmandu and its two sister cities, Patan and Bhaktapur. The temples built of bricks with tiered roofs are one of the most outstanding contributions of the Newars to the architecture of the country. Reports by early historians and travelers show that these were inspired by the ancient Indian temples. While the basic concept remains the same in each of the durbar squares, the structures vary only in size and shape. The main structures are of brick, and the regal timber struts support the multi-tiered roofs that come slanting down. Most of the temples, the more important ones, have three-tiered roofs. The temples as well as the sculptures and stupas, pagodas and palaces of the durbar squares were designated UNESCO World Heritage Sights in 1979. All the durbar squares showcase the skills of the Newar artists and craftsmen. |
Of the three durbar squares, the Kathmandu Durbar Square is the biggest and is right in the heart of the city. All the temples here have a unique style which hasn't changed much over several centuries. The locals refer to the place as Hanuman Dhoka, after the monkey god who is revered as the protector of the Square. There are over 50 monuments and temples here and this is on the top of any tourist's sight-seeing list. The Kathmandu Durbar Square also houses the palaces of the Malla and the Shah dynasties who ruled over the country. This durbar square was the preferred place for constructing the palaces from the period of the Licchavi kings who ruled over Nepal during the third century. However, it was under the rule of King Ratna Malla, under whom Kathmandu became independent, that the Durbar Square witnessed an architectural revival.
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| At the north eastern end of the Durbar Square is the magnificent Taleju Temple, standing 40 metres high and built on a huge stepped platform. Dedicated to the royal deity Taleju Bhawani, the temple is off limit to ordinary Hindus except during the Durga Pooja that falls between September and October. The temple built in 1562 by King Mahendra Malla used to have even human sacrifices till the practise was outlawed in 1780. The Shiva Parvati temple is an attraction not to be missed at the Durbar Square. This temple, built in the distinctive Newar style, has a single roof and holds the Navadurga, a group of goddesses, inside. |
| The relief of Kala Bhairav, believed to be Lord Shiva in his destructive avatar, is a masterpiece. Here locals throng with prayers and offerings. This fiery god has eight arms, holds six swords, an axe and a shield. He is shown trampling a corpse which symbolises human ignorance. During the earlier days, criminals used to be brought here to swear their innocence as it was believed that anyone who lies in his presence would bleed to death. Conveniently, the police station today is also situated closeby. |
| Worshipping a pre-pubescent girl as a source of supreme power has been prevalent all over Nepal, especially among the Newar community in the Kathmandu Valley. It was Jayaprakash Malla, the last Malla king, who first built a temple for Kumari or Durga in her virginal state. The Kumari Devi is a young girl who stays in the building called the Kumari Ghar at the southern end of the Durbar Square. This is like a golden cage as the young girl, chosen through an ancient, mystical process to find whether she is actually the reincarnation of the Hindu goddess, is not allowed to go out except on occasions. |
The ancient city of Patan, known as the city of fine arts, is just 5km southeast from Kathmandu. It is widely believed to have been founded by Emperor Asoka in the third century BC though there are no proofs to support it. The place is also called Lalitpur which means "the beautiful city". The day I came to Patan Square happily coincided with the Krishna Janmashtami celebrations, the birth anniversary of Lord Krishna. (Then, you are bound to chance on at least one major festival if your stay extends to more than, an average three days in Nepal.) I was privy to the peoples' enthusiasm about the local festivities and beliefs, celebrated with the same pomp and splendour the way they was centuries ago. The devotees, all attired in traditional finery, had assembled in the Krishna Mandir, the ancient temple in Patan Square. They also visit other temples which deify Lord Krishna and offer prayers, food, flowers and sweets. They chant hymns all the while, invoking the god's blessing for a fruitful year ahead.
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| Patan is the oldest among all the cities in the Kathmandu Valley. It was a well developed and hugely progressive town right from the earliest days. The city was designed in the shape of the Buddhist Dharma Chakra or the Wheel of Righteousness and it is believed that the great Emperor Asoka came visiting Patan with his daughter Charumati in 250BC and built Buddhist stupas here. There are approximately 1,200 Buddhist monuments spread around the city. The most famous Buddhist landmark here is the Golden Temple, a short walk from the Durbar Square. |
| The Patan Durbar Square today is one of the World Heritage Sites listed by UNESCO. It is a city of arts and artists and craftsmen with undisputable skills. The majority of the population follow Buddhism, but you also find exquisite Hindu temples in addition to the bronze gateways, marvellous statues, guardian deities and beautiful carvings in metal, wood and stone. The shops lining the palace square are a delight for anyone interested in curios. Handicraft shops with a wide variety of statues and idols leave a lot of options as far as souvenirs go. |
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PHOTO CREDIT: Wikipedia = R.M.Calamar
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Thanks to the superb craftsmanship of the artisans, intricate woodcarvings, quite deep in detail, are to be seen everywhere. A lot of rebuilding took place from the 16th to the 18th centuries under the Mallas and has undergone renovation in recent years. The Bishwanath Mandir is a double roofed pagoda guarded by stone elephants and decorated with fabulous carvings. Though the fierce monsoons of 1990 destroyed the entire building, it was reconstructed.
A melee of colour, a profusion of culture and an exuberant heritage, the Patan Durbar is where architecture is at its evocative best. Where gods and kings mingle with the mortals is where history comes alive in its truest spirit.
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Bhaktapur, between the 14th and the 16th centuries, was the capital of Nepal. Though today it has lost the privilege to Kathmandu, it still retains its culture and traditions, some say, even better than Kathmandu or Patan. One reason is that it is 15kms away from the madding crowd, the choking traffic and the general mayhem of the capital city. During the ancient days, the city was an important business centre as it was located in the bustling trade route to Tibet. The inhabitants were prosperous and self reliant. They were blessed with a fertile soil and the farmers could make enough produce to feed the entire town. The craftsmen were a respected lot and they were entrusted with the task of making the temples really fit for the gods. And by the looks of it, they did extraordinary justice to their responsibilities.
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| The Dattatreya Square named after the triad deities, Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Maheshwara the emancipator are a delight for those interested in wood carvings. The Square also features some of the finest examples of metal craftsmanship you would ever see. The 55 Windows Palace, built in the 18th century, is made of brick and has an upper floor entirely of wooden windows. Hence, the name. The earthquake of 1934 partially destroyed the palace. Fortunately some of the more exotic carvings were mercifully spared from the fury. The Taleju Bhawani was the preferred deity for the kings here as well. Getting inside the Taleju temple complex is not usually encouraged but you can persuade the armed guards to look the other way. Once inside the complex, you get a foretaste of some imperial preferences. The Mallas, it seems, were as fond of luxuries as they were of their gods. Their swimming pool had an open terrace for sunbathing. The golden spout was for filling the pool with water and the entire pool was outlined like a sprawled snake. Even inside the pool, the kings had set up miniature temples. |
| At the southeastern corner of the royal palace is the Siddhi Lakshmi Temple. This is known as the "Lohan Dega" or the stone temple. The steps leading up to the temple is flanked by the male and female species of animals and two nobles at the bottom, each of them are shown dragging a naked child and a dog. Just five minutes from the Durbar Square is the Taumadhi Square where the legendary Nyatapola temple stands towering elegantly. Nyata is Nepali and it means "five stepped". The Nyatapola, rising to a regal 30 metres, is Nepal's tallest temple. Balanced on five receding square plinths, there are five balconies over which are five roofs each supported by magnificently carved wooden columns. At the bottom of the steep stairway that leads up to the temple are two wrestlers from the Malla times who were famed for their skill and strength. Further upwards are lions and griffins and statues of goddesses Singhini and Baghini. |
| The temple was built by King Bhupatindra Malla for his favourite deity the Siddhi Lakshmi. There are 108 wooden beams that support the roof from below, each depicting the goddess in her different forms. However, one strange fact is that despite the size and the allure of the temple, no one has really seen the goddess. The temple offers great views of the durbar square as well as the surrounding areas. The brick red of the square offers a fabulous contrast against the verdant green of the mountain of the valley. Set at right angles to the Nyatapola is the Bhairavnath Mandir. The three-tiered roof which stands against a clear afternoon sun shows off a massive grandeur. The temple, dedicated to the city's patron god Bhairav is believed to have extraordinary powers which make it a favorite among the locals. |
| Southwest from the Nyatapola square is the famous pottery market. If you do enjoy the high that you get by moulding a mound of clay into beautiful objects, or just enjoy seeing the finished goodies, then this is a place you cannot afford to miss. Here, the amiable and ever helpful craftsmen take novices through the basic motions. |
Between the durbar squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, there are no fewer than 150 major temples of varying intricacy and magnificence. All the durbar squares are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sights. The buildings and monuments are a tribute to the magnificent skill and artistry of the Newar craftsmen and maintain more or less certain elements of uniformity throughout.
In Nepal, heritage is everyday--it is breathing and is all around you. It is inextricable to the Nepali way of life. And 'must see' on any traveler list.
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FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
The author is a writer and director of travel programs. He can be contacted through his blog
Wanderink.com
PHOTO CREDITS: Thommen Jose and as noted.
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