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 African Continent |
 Malawi's Mulanje Massif is steeped in tradition, mysticism and witchcraft, and when I headed towards the third highest peak in Africa the lead story in the national daily paper reported on the recent events that had taken place in the foothills of this vast and solitary granite inselberg. There had been a worrying lack of rain for the time of year. Maize crops, that are so important across the country were already failing, and the traditional authorities, village headmen and local communities had been accusing certain people of keeping the rain in their houses through the power of witchcraft.The consequences of these accusations had been fatal for these so called witches and disturbing to everyone. In addition, the rain season that runs from December to June is not the ideal time to go hiking on Mulanje, but even with the small amount of rain there had been this year, the area blooms with orchids, tall majestic grasses and lush green views. |
| Mt. Mulanje was formed from igneous rock, an ancient block that cooled beneath the earth's surface. Over time, softer rock has eroded away, leaving the isolated granite mass. 130 million years old, it is the highest mountain in south-central Africa, one of the world's largest granite inselbergs, a term for a lone mountain elevated above the surrounding area by natural erosion.Mulanje has some of the best granite climbing you could hope to find anywhere. The massif is broken up by deep gorges down which rivers with spectacular waterfalls tumble. The mountain rises steeply and suddenly from the undulating plains to the highlands, surrounded by near-vertical cliffs of bare rock, many over 1000m (3280ft) high. |
| Signing in at the base: |
| For climbers, the first stop is the Mulanje Mountain office, situated at the far end of the main street that runs through the town. Here you can get information and advice on guides and routes. From there you can either take a local minibus or get on the back of a bicycle taxi that will take you through the endless stunning tea plantations to the start of the trek. Once in Likhubula Village, there is a short dirt road that leads to the Likhubula Tourism office and the park entrance. Guides and porters come running from all directions in the hope of selling their services. Guides work on a rotational basis giving them all clients in turn, but this doesn't seem apparent as you're surrounded by men franticly competing for business. Stalls sell beautifully sculpted, sweet-scented cedar wood walking sticks for the rambling tourists as well as some of the most impressive craftsmanship seen anywhere in Malawi. The park fees are remarkably reasonable and payable at the main gate. From here you will be directed to the Likhubula Tourism Office to make payments for the government owned mountain huts. |
| Up the Skyline Path to the Chambe Hut: |
| The first hike from the CCAP Likhubula lodge up the Skyline Path to the Chambe Hut takes around four hours. Trekking starts with a gentle rise through pine forests. Invasive pine in this area is slowly being eradicated to make way for the famous Mulanje cedar. The Mulanje Mountain Conservation Trust is funded by the World Bank for the purpose of providing long-term reliable support for biodiversity research and conservation. The area has a rich forest reserve and is home to diverse endemic plant and animal species. Walking through this forest you are constantly reminded of the de-forestation that is going on to preserve the area. The route soon gets more difficult as the path steepens and windes through forests of the unique Mulanje Cedar trees, some of which grow to over 200 years old. Because of the work going into the eradication of the pine, the forested slopes of the Massif support a sizeable timber industry. Forest workers carry up to four, five-meter planks on their heads. These planks are hand cut in the forests and transported in this manner down the mountain. Porters get paid around 50mk per plank, around 20p and they do up to three gruelling trips per day. For years there was a cable-way to transport timber from the edge of the plateau down to the Likhubula forestry station but it fell into disrepair around two years ago. Locally, the rumours of the possible repair to the cable are unpopular as the employment in the local villages has risen dramatically since its demise. Many of the government trained guides and porters do this work when they are not hiking with clients. |
The Chambe Hut: |
| The last hour is a gentler path through the Chambe Basin with an imposing sheer face that leads up to the Chambe peak, dominating the view. Rock climbers have been coming to this face for years for its challenging routes. The Chambe Hut is the recommended lodgings for the first night when making this ascent. The watchman gets a fire going and cooks your dinner over the open flames. The hut's balcony is the perfect place from which to watch sunset colors play over Mulanje's towering face as the sun goes down. |
| Although basic, all the huts on the massif are comfortable and with the fire blazing, warm and welcoming after the hard days trekking. Amenities include a rustic fire blackened range. Cooking pots are available, but when the huts get busy, you will often have to wait your turn to use them. It is sensible to bring your own cooking utensils and plates. Simple plastic covered mattresses are supplied, but it gets surprisingly cold during the night, and a good sleeping bag is essential. The next day's hike takes you up and down rocky paths, often flanking spring fed streams and rivers with cascading waterfalls. The path crosses huge plains and boulder fields surrounded by dramatic granite peaks. Above tree line, long grasses, cycads and ferns give a Jurassic look to the landscape. Water bottles can be filled anywhere at this height, and with the soaring temperatures they frequently are. |
| Spirits of the mountain: |
| Chatting to your guides you can learn more about spirits that are believed to haunt this range. In recent years the mountains have claimed the lives of two tourists, both of whom were caught out by weather after having decided to go into the range without the aid of a guide. They say that if someone dies and the body disappears as was the case of a Dutch woman lost some years ago, then it is the mountain spirits who have taken it away. The spirits aren't all bad though. Its believed that they commonly leave hot cooked food out on the paths. However, if hikers or workers well fed by these spirits mention their generous meal to anyone, then they will surely go insane within the week. The Mulanje district is know throughout Malawi for powerful witchcraft, and you would be hard pushed to find any Malawian who doesn't believe in the spirits of the mountains. |
| Hopes Rest, on the Lichenya Plateau: |
| Eventually, you will reach the CCAP hut, Hopes Rest, on the Lichenya Plateau. Here you will be treated to yet another striking view. Hope Rest is the only non government hut on the mountain and possibly the most comfortable. Built in 1904 it has real character and is the base for a short hike that takes you to the stunning Linje Pools. Sunset at the Linje pools is a true highlight. With a virtual sheer drop of 1000 meters to the plains below, the views stretch endlessly over tea plantations and across to Mozambique. Crystal clear waterfalls are fed by streams that come from deep crevasses across the plateau's grasslands. Standing on boulders with water plummeting down the granite face below has to be one of the most dramatic and beautiful landscapes experiences anywhere in Africa. |
| On to the summit: |
| For many of us there is always a strong urge to make it to the peak of any mountain range, and Mulanje is no different. First you have to make it to the Chiespo Hut. From here you can reach Sapitwa, the highest point of the massif. After a good nights rest, setting off at a rapid pace, you retrace your steps from the previous day up until the last hour. Then you branch off to the right and--after gently climbing for an hour--you arrive at the hut by 10am. From there you can make the steep climb to the Sapitwa peak, but not without a firm warning: keeping up the necessary pace is essential in order to ensure returning to the hut by 5pm before dark. |
| The start of the climb is a 40 degree scree covered granite slope. It proves to be the hardest part of the climb and makes one realize how dangerous it would be in the wet, both on the assent and decent. It will become clear as to how weather dependant reaching the peak is. Beyond this you hike through endless boulder fields, scrambling over rocks with short but challenging climbs. After around two and a half hours you will reach the summit. Sapitwa, translates as 'don't go there', which is hard to agree with. The highest point is marked by a simple post at 3001meters. With stunning views, you see across the whole range of over 20 peaks, protruding through the clouds that chase through the valleys and race up the slopes before dispersing into the deep blue sky. When safely back at the hut and after a hearty feed you will be more than ready for your last nights sleep in the mountains. |
| The descent: |
| The next morning, surrounding the Chiespo Hut, trees and grasses glisten in glorious sunshine. The landscape is overwhelming, and the thought of leaving won't appeal. The final trek down to Likhubula Village is difficult, and the long steep descent really takes its toll on the knees, forcing one to stop many times to allow tendons and muscles to relax but giving time to take in the glorious views of the mountains towering above. The descent becomes more manageable as you walk back down through the deep green tea plantations punctuated by brightly dressed pickers. Finally, you will reach the sprawling village where your journey started three days earlier. As you amble back into Malawian civilization, past hoards of excited school children, the view back at the mountain range gives you a sense of the size of the Mujlanje Massif , a destination that is guaranteed to give you some of the best trekking you will ever experience. |
| Useful information for planning the trip: |
| Once in Malawi, the costs of trekking on Mulanje, unlike other mountains in Africa, are unlikely to break the bank. Permits for the massif are 100mk (40p) per day and are obtainable from the gate in Likhubula. Just through the gate you will be directed to the office where the hut fees can be obtained. The price varies depending on the time of year but it should never cost you more than 250mk (£1) per night. Maps of the range are also available from here. You can expect to pay around 1500mk (£6) per day for your guide and 1000mk (£4) for porters. Your guide may also be willing to serve as a porter for an extra cost and will often cater for groups if this has been pre-arranged. You can expect to have to give the guides some money in advance for the purchasing of their own food for the trip, and don't be shy to tip if you are happy with their services afterwards. They are all government trained and generally very knowledgeable in making the mountain experience a far more interesting one. Not all guides are prepared to do Sapitwa peak, so if this is your intention, check in advance. It's advisable to come well prepared, and supplies for your trip are best bought in Blantyre. There is a large network of paths linking nine huts, and the route that you choose will depend on your ambitions for your trip. Choices can be varied: attempting to reach the Sapitwa summit, hiking through the forests and hiking along the mountain plains. Your guide will be able to discuss and plan routes with you. Huts can only be booked upon arrival at Likhubula. In the event of an emergency, the Forestry Officers at Likhubula are responsible for co-ordinating any search and rescue operations that may be required. In extreme cases, the army have been know to use helicopters for search and rescue, and mobile phone reception is available throughout most of the massif. |
| Being typically tropical, the best time to visit is between mid-April and August when it's dry and temperatures are moderate. November to early April is generally hot and wet while September and October are traditionally hot and dry. The Afromontane habitat includes grassland and cedar forests. There are 2 types of cedar: the Mulanje cedar, Widdringtonia whytei, which is endemic to Mulanje and Widdringtonia nodiflora. Large and small varieties of gladioli, a colourful array of ground orchids, and proteas also adorn the mountain. Aloes are common on the upper slopes of the peaks. Chrysanthemum, wild peach and yellow-wood also all occur. Bird life includes purple-crested loeries, larger raptors, cisticolas and kestrels. |
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Air, South African Airlines and Air Malawi all fly in and out of Lilongwe, the capital city around 300km to the north. South African Airlines, Air Malawi and Air Zimbabwe fly into Blantyre Airport 60km to the east. Several car hire companies operate from both airports, but prices can be expensive. Malawi has relatively good roads, and 4x4's are rarely necessary. Alternatively, there are comfortable coaches available from Lilongwe to Blantyre. From Blantyre there are less comfortable minibuses that will take you to Mulanje. From there you can easily and safely hitch or catch a bicycle taxi to Likhubula. Serious climbers and those wanting organized tours can pre arranged through:
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© 2010 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES |
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